I was not impressed by Gucci’s Guilty advertisements. They made the fragrance seem like it was catering to adolescent interests. It falls into all the regular olfactory categories ubiquitous today: floral, fruity, sweet… It wouldn’t be worth a mention, but its subtle, yet tenacious and well-developed scent lend it a winning edge.
Guilty starts out as a sweet floral, but loosens its sugariness considerably. The pink pepper top note lends a rosy tone to the composition. Peach gives it a skin-like feel. Lilac lends it a clean, floral, very feminine appeal and a soapy quality. Patchouli in the base notes lends it a slightly sweet, dark egde, but, suffocated by florals, it’s magic is lost. Despite how well blended this fragrance is, the high-pitched florals humming over the lost patchouli conjures grandmotherly associations, but that is only my perception. Overall, Guilty is a smooth perfume that lasts about 5 hours – amazing for such a subtle scent. It radiates within about 15 centimetres.
I applaud the quality of Guilty, but personal tastes crave a more brooding, deeper, or layered scent. If you are looking for a modern fruity floral with a twist, however, do try it.
– 0.25oz (7.4ml) spray for C$31.00
– 1oz (30ml) spray for C$68.00
– 1.6oz (47ml) spray for C$93.00
– 2.5oz (74ml) spray for C$118.00
– 30ml spray for £32.00
– 50ml spray for £42.40
– 75ml spray for £54.40
A fragrance can be pleasant or unpleasant, complicated or not. The more complicated a scent, the more nuanced it is, the more ingredients of high quality were used to make it. For me, it is a relatively simple matter to judge the complexity of a perfume, but it can be difficult to decide whether I like it or not.
Euphoria is one of the most popular scents on the market. This is surprising, because although the fragrance can be seen as a fruity floral, it differs leagues from the average in this category. This scent is very strong! Its potency is such that even a tiny spritz gives a dense, heady scent. Unfortunately, I had an initial association with a strong-smelling old lady for its cloying quality. Euphoria smells interesting, but with what populates the general market it’s almost astonishing to find it successful. I’m glad for it, as it is a quality product, even though personally I find it too heady. The scent is a woody floral aroma upon drydown – an allure perhaps worth waiting for through the almost sickening floral sweetness. Dry pomegranate introduces the fragrance with a sweet, exotic note, which I sense is ruined and quickly by the overpowering heady orchid that tries to usurp the fruit. The resulting concoction can be nauseating. On the verge of the drydown, once pomegranate had aired out and the orchid softened, mahogany and amber show through. At this stage, Euphoria finally becomes wearable. It is definitely a winter and autumn fragrance or for a night event, lasting 10 hours and leaving a trail withing arm’s length of the user.
Calvin Klein’s Euphoria is a complicated, nuanced, quality fragrance that tells a grueling story for too long before coming to the happy and pleasant-smelling end. The degree of enjoyment of its narrative will greatly influence the perception of the perfume.
Calvin Klein Euphoria Eau de Parfum Spray: 30ml for £30.60, 50ml for £40.80, 100ml for £56.10 @ Escentual.com.
My imagination is, unfortunately, lacking. People talk of fragrances evoking memories, but I never experienced the phenomenon. A few may spark imagination, though I still have to put my mind to it and actively generate a picture.
Many people on the Internet talk of Apres L’Ondee being a rain fragrance: to wear during such weather, to evoke a rainy garden feel, or both. I agree. Anise in the top notes begins the drizzle, slowing into a bitter and powdery facet which whispers of an oncoming thunderstorm. The downpour begins and the drenched violets release their scent, joined by iris and heliotrope in the basenotes. The floral accord mingles with a woody one, alluding to broken stems and branches for a true garden after the rain. It’s a fragrance for a spring or summer day, especially for a cold one. Apres L’Ondee lasts about 5 hours and sits close to the skin without leaving a trail.
Although the top notes are luminous, the fast-approaching drydown is antique. Its bitter note is nothing of the interesting melancholy character like it is in Mitsouko. Only the skeleton of the fragrance remains.
Guerlain Apres L’Ondee Eau de Toilette Spray: 100ml white bee bottle for £66.60 @ Escentual.com.
My first sniff of L’Heure Bleue made me wonder what was so special about it. I wore it anyway to see how my perception changed. Generally, even if I like a perfume at first, on my third day of testing I am bored and sick of it. L’Heure Bleue however, on its third day, seemed to me like a masterpiece. I may not be an expert, but I see quality. L’Heure Bleue is a grand quality fragrance. What I smelled on day one was the same as day two and three, but my understanding of it changed. It smelled sparkling, yet substantial.
L’Heure Bleue is a warm, spicy, powdery floral fragrance with a woody base. The anisic topnotes sparkle into spicy heliotrope and carnation, followed by a decadent base of iris and vanilla. A perfume for the winter and autumn nights, for a grand ball, or a decadent festivity. It lasts about 10 hours, trails the wearer and is noticeable to people standing nearby (approximately 1 metre).
The parfum is luxurious. It melds with the skin. I prefer the slightly ligher eau de parfum versions and will definitely be trying L’Heure Bleue’s in the future. The only caution I think that I should give is that the scent is of a different time, and clashes mightily with today’s fruity floral market. Explorers should be pleased, but it may not appeal to all of the audience.
Guerlain L’Heure Bleue Perfume: 30ml bottle for £181.80 @ Escentual.com.
The fragrance market is flooded with Eau de Parfums and Eau de Toilettes. Extracts – parfums – are harder to come by in North America. I recently got my hands on a few perfumes from the house of Guerlain. One of these was Nahema.
Nahema is a definitive rose, slightly green and woody, but mainly floral. The perfume concentration is very warm and I did not notice any green nuances. Rose opens with peach, followed by more rose and lilac in the midnotes. Peru balsam in the drydown pushes the composition into a balsamic accord, but, again, the perfume is more floral. The extract, with its quality ingredients, gives a rich and nuanced impression. The classic rose and lilac pairing echos the Victorian era. The scent lasts for about 10 hours staying close to the wearer – dense and decadent.
The first time I tried Nahema perfume, I was pleased by its old-fashioned, maternal motif. I remember applying makeup in front of the mirror while inhaling the scent, and smiling at how sophisticated it made me feel. It also reminded me of my Mother’s lipstick. Despite this association, it felt like my perfume – suited for me. Nahema is best used as a winter or autumn fragrance because of its density, or at night for its sensuality.
Guerlain Nahema Perfume: 30ml bottle for £161.60 @ Escentual.com.